Maud & Me

McDonald Lake, Glacier National Park

“I’m leaving on a jet plane. Don’t know when I’ll be back again.” My traveling partner this trip is granddaughter #1, Maud. We are in the air as this scheduled post hits my blog. If you know Maud, it should not surprise you that it is possible that I might question my sanity about this arrangement. Stay tuned……

As we’re flying off to Montana, my mind takes me back several years ago. The year I graduated from high school, my sister and I took a trip across the country, camping along the way. We were gone for three months. It was definitely a trip of a lifetime. Our travels took us to our uncle’s house in the dry sagebrush hills of Eastern Montana. Aunt Frances had died a few years before, and Uncle Buster had remarried a Southern lady. Aunt Viola was a jewel and a good cook. I loved to walk into their house after a long drive and experience her southern charm and table loaded with food. We had some fun adventures with Uncle Buster. One of the adventures was a trip to Glacier National Park.

He had a small camper that he hooked up to his truck. Aunt Viola buzzed around getting food and other items together. We all piled in the truck and started up the road with our little house attached. Uncle Buster drove much better with Aunt Viola along. He even stayed on the road – most of the time!

Uncle Buster & Aunt Viola

We drove through the Missouri River Breaks, past Zortman and Malta. Passing through that area rekindled Uncle Buster’s memories. I grew up hearing stories about that rugged country. The family left Oklahoma the summer of 1914, went north and homesteaded near Sun Prairie Flats just south of Malta. Several of my relatives who died in the 1918 flu epidemic are buried there. Uncle Buster had worked for ranches. My granddad told about Old Stink who lived in a tent in front of a cave in the Little Rockies near Zortman. My granddad’s description was, “He was an old man, Indian and Frenchman. Strong. Strong smelling feller.” 

We stopped to visit some cousins in Havre. That little town is the crown jewel of the area known as the Montana Hi-Line. That region encompasses what Montana is about – prairie, fields of wheat, cattle, mountains – all beneath the Big Sky. It was the original mainline of the Great Northern Railway. Part of that area is also dinosaur country. That was our route to Glacier National Park. 

In the park we took the Going to the Sun Road. It was kind of scary at times. Remember that Uncle Buster was driving – the same Uncle Buster that shaved when he drove. He was also pulling a camper that would swing and sway as it danced in the wind on those high ridges. On some of those hairpin turns we’d almost meet ourselves. We missed many of the grand vistas because the mountains were smothered in clouds. That is the land where Maud and I are heading. I’m sure we will find great adventures, see grand sights and add to our memories. Stay tuned for more from Maud & Me!

June 2019

On the Other Side of the Mountain

On the other side of the mountain
from the valley far below
I walked through alpine meadows
to peaks topped with snow

Cloud enshrouded the ridges
then I stepped above the heights
the veil lifted from the valleys
to reveal its hidden sights

What a glorious scene to behold
treasures delved from the deep
pearls of sparkling glacial lakes
teal waters cold and deep

Along steep mountain slopes
through virgin snowy banks
streams plunged to depths below
joining waters in the ranks

Watching the valley below
from his regal sacred shrine
a silent sentry stood guard
atop the earth’s rocky spine

Once again the curtain fell
as I walked the rocky path
pelting rain and icy snow
was unleashed in all its wrath

The night was dark and cold
fires doused from watery skies
unrestful sleep on stony ground
under ever watchful eyes

Morning brought a new dawn
though the sun refused to shine
I marveled at the wondrous day
along the trail in mountain pine

Could anything dampen my spirits
in this land so far apart
or quench the passion burning within –
in the mountains of my heart

Across flowing streams and river rocks
over shale slopes and grassy knolls
soft wind teased the grass
wild flowers bared their souls

The rough-hewn logs beckoned me
within the cabin walls
fire burning amid the stones
as the chill softly falls

Water drawn from the spring
warming on wood burning stove
the sun shining on the earth
double rainbow in the cove

The table spread with tasty fare
as the others enter the gate
greeted to warmth and food
a weary wanderer’s fate

My soul sighs with deep content
drawn to those skies of blue
already a longing tugs at my heart
as the mountains fade from view

I know one day I will return
to this land of mountains and streams
until then I’ll live on memories
and rest there in my dreams

2014

inspired by 1974 backpacking trip from the other side of the mountains

note: The first night’s camp was near Hindu Lake. There were two rock formations that looked like two Hindus at the top of the ridge standing guard over the valley.

Over the Top

Backpacking was always fun.  Yes, I got sore and tired, but it was worth it!  There is nothing quite like trekking up the mountain trails and watching the mountains unfold into valleys and streams.  There is no water to quench the thirst like that bubbling from a fresh mountain spring.  

One of my favorite backpacking trips was the year my friend went with us in 1974. It was her first experience in Montana and her first experience backpacking in the mountains. My aunt dropped us off on the far side of the mountain. We packed all the way over the top of the mountains into the canyon where my grandmother’s place was. Part way up the mountain, Sis had trouble breathing in the rising altitude.  She had been running in South Georgia, but it didn’t prepare her for the altitude. We had to divide the stuff in her pack between the rest of us to reduce her load. 

Packing in

We headed on up the trail. The ranchers and farmers around the area always liked for us to come.  It was a sure sign of rain, though none would be in the forecast.  Well, we didn’t disappoint them!  My friend & I were in the lead. We reached the top of the mountain. The trail was right on the top of the ridge.  We could see the valleys down both sides of the mountain we straddled. We saw lakes in the valleys below and scattered beds of snow and ice. By the time the others got to the top, they could not see the valley. The clouds started rolling in. Within seconds, the valleys were filled with clouds. They were so thick, we could feel the weight of the moisture. The wind picked up and mist from the clouds was on our faces. We huddled next to some spindly shrubs and crevices in the rocks to get out of the wind pelting us with icy rain and then made our way down the trail.  

We came over the mountain above Hindu Lake.  It sure was pretty! The lake was clear and cold with bits of ice and snow at the edges of the water. Looking across the valley, we could see our trail along the creek. Just around the bend from where we stood was a glacier inching its way down the side of the mountain. I could see the trail on the other side of the snow. A few animal foot prints could be seen across the icy trail. It was a bit spooky going across. I could just picture us walking across the snow and sliding down the mountain or taking a step with snow melted underneath. Neither picture was good.

We made our way down the trail, sat by the lake and waited on the others. It would soon be time to decide where to camp for the night and get some supper started. Then the rain came. We went on past Hindu Lake and set up camp with Moose Lake in sight in the valley below us. The clouds lifted enough that we could see the lake from our bathroom (a fallen tree). If you’ve never experienced seeing those mountain lakes from the mountain top, you’ve missed a grand sight.

Moose Lake

It was miserable setting up camp in the rain. It was even more miserable trying to cook supper over the open fire.  After a not-so-comfortable night, we had to pack up the tent in the rain. We were soaked! We were cold. We loaded up our packs and headed down the mountain. The weather got some better but not much. Everything was wet, and wet means heavy. Hiking in cold wet boots and clothes adds pounds to an already heavy backpack and can mess up your knees.

Wet, cold, socks and shoes drying, and loving every minute.

We camped at South Fork the next night. When we woke up the next morning, the mountains were white. The storm had set in!  Daddy said we needed to get out of the mountains. The snow was moving down the mountain. It was almost in reach of us. We headed out at a fast pace.

I was the first one out with my friend right behind me. We got to my grandmother’s cabin, and I got a fire started in the fire place and got the wood cookstove going. Soon our wet clothes, shoes and socks were drying by the fire. I put water on the stove to get hot for a bath, a tea kettle ready for hot tea and started cooking a meal. By the time the others got there, supper was ready to put on the table, the tea kettle was hot, and the little cabin was warming up for cold travelers.

When my aunt came to pick us up, we found out that a foot of snow had fallen where we had camped that first night. Daddy knew those mountains and the wrath of those storms. We were cold, wet and tired, but the memories only fill me with warmth.

Land of Fire and Ice

One of the great wonders of our family trip in 1962 was Yellowstone National Park. I don’t know how well my memory serves me, but having a few photos from that trip helps to keep it alive.

Buffalo are the kings of the highway. If they’re on the road, you stop. On our drive through Yellowstone, we stopped to see elk and to look for moose. There’s little to compare with seeing a moose in shallow water eating the marsh grasses or at the edge of the water pulling down a willow limb. We drove along and soon cars slowed down to a stop. If cars are stopped up ahead, you can almost guarantee there is something you need to see. There was a bear! That’s one of the prizes in Yellowstone! It was so close Daddy was able to get a good picture. I remember being scared that the bear would come over to the car and rip the door off to get to me. What a sight! I still get all jiggly inside when I see a bear in the wild. The massiveness of their haunches and the power they can wield is frightening but awesome.

Yellowstone Lake was gorgeous – and cold. The waterfalls were impressive as the upper falls tumbled into the canyon then continued to flow into the lower falls dropping some 300 feet. The canyon is absolutely breathtaking. To a little girl, the whole scene was massive. It seems when you’re little, everything looks bigger. 

We were there to see Old Faithful erupt. Though I’ve seen her many times, she’s still amazing to witness. Walking along the boardwalk with the sizzling of fissures sending out a burst of sulfuric steam was intimidating. Morning Glory pool showed off its brilliant colors. The “Stinky Paint Pots,” as my grandmother called them, boiled and with each bubble of mud that burped, a smell that matched was released. Boiling mud, caked sulfur, people relaxing in hot thermal pools along the edge of the cold rushing river, the Dragons’ Mouth, the white cascading steps of Mammoth Hot Springs – all of those things come to mind when I think of my first visit. It is truly a wonder to behold and to experience. Can you imagine explorers seeing that land for the first time?

Old Faithful 1962

Outside of the park, we went to Hebgen Lake. That was eerie! The Hebgen Lake Earthquake of 1959, aka Yellowstone Earthquake, ravaged the land. It was the strongest and deadliest quake to hit Montana. When we visited in 1962, there was still debris from landslides. Jagged sections of road still lay at an angle where the quake had ripped the road in pieces, looking like uneven edges of a giant jigsaw puzzle. An old house barely hung to the bank while other parts of the house were submerged in the lake. The boys walked into the house. I just knew the house was going to break free and float to the bottom. I told Mama they didn’t need to go in there! Truth be known, I think she agreed and probably voiced her disapproval to Daddy. 

All those sights, feelings, smells and thoughts are etched into my memory. What a blessing it has been to be able to go there with my children and grandchildren. My desire is that they will hold those memories close and make new ones for themselves!

Hail Storms & Prairie Dogs

Traveling across the country was just the beginning of the adventures we would have once we reached Uncle Buster’s house. He was full of laughter, practical jokes and fun. Uncle Buster was my grandfather’s brother. He was a rancher, hunter, trapper, homesteader, horse wrangler, bronc rider, marksman, storyteller, water-witcher, cowboy, and sheepherder. 

Uncle Buster would sometimes shave while he drove, too.

One day Uncle Buster took us on a grand adventure. I was in the cab of the truck. The big kids piled in the back of the truck with Daddy. Uncle Buster didn’t need lines on the road to drive. He didn’t even need a road. He drove his old beat up green truck like he rode one of the cantankerous bucking broncs. We bucked across the eastern Montana hills dotted with prickly pears and sagebrush and bounced on the road swerving from ditch to ditch, dust flying at our heels. It was an adventure just riding with him even if no other adventures popped up, but that day, adventures popped up. 

We drove along a bumpy road through dry land adorned with rock outcroppings, scrubby bushes and a few gnarled trees. An occasional antelope could be seen grazing on dry grass in the wide-open countryside.  As we rode, the clouds began to join one another. Then they changed colors. They turned dark and green. The darker they got, the faster Uncle Buster drove. He said, “We better find a place quick! Hail’s a comin’.” He was already going as fast as he could, but he made that old beat up truck go even faster. Miles ahead, we saw one little store in the town of Ingomar come into view. It grew larger as we got closer. We kicked up dust as Uncle Buster skidded to a stop. We jumped out of the truck with one command, “Run!” Just as the screen door slammed behind us, the clouds erupted and belched forth ice from the sky clad with green clouds. Balls of ice danced and bounced off the ground. As we waited for the angry sky to stop throwing stones, we were treated to ice cold cokes. That was a rare treat! When it was all done, the ground was white, covered with ice. The top of the truck had more dents than when we had started. I learned a couple of things that day: green clouds mean “hail’s a comin’,” and Uncle Buster was better than a weatherman. He could read the sky.

Our adventure wasn’t quite over. We were off again with Uncle Buster telling stories as he drove. It wasn’t long before he pulled off the side of the road. His eyes were twinkling, and he was chuckling about something. He was always up to some kind of mischief. He loved to tease and play jokes, especially on rowdy boys. We all piled out of the truck. We looked off into the flat land scattered with little mounds of dirt. Occasionally, we could see little fuzzy critters that looked like sentries standing guard. They made funny little chirping noises as they called to one another. It was a prairie dog town. Uncle Buster laughed and told the boys to go catch one of the prairie dogs. Those three boys took off running as fast as they could to see who could catch one first. Uncle Buster laughed that deep robust laugh that gurgled from the bottom of his stomach. That game didn’t last too long. The boys soon came back. They didn’t have a prairie dog, but they sure brought back plenty because they were covered with fleas. 

Prairie Dog on sentry duty.

Uncle Buster had a good laugh that lasted for days. I can still hear his hearty laughter echoing through the years.

Uncle Buster and my granddad

Free Fall

I like to plan trips going to “Destination Unknown” for the girls that travel with me occasionally, but on my birthday I got my own Destination Unknown. My husband planned a trip for me, and it was to be a surprise. With the little information I had, I was sure the surprise was one of two things – skydiving or hang gliding. The day before my birthday, I asked my husband what time we were leaving on Sunday and what I needed to wear. He said when our daughter arrived, she would tell me. I asked, “Did you take out a life insurance policy on me?” Our daughter arrived and the surprise was revealed. Skydiving. She was taking the plunge with me.

The next morning, we drove to Chattanooga Skydiving Company for our adventure. We watched some of the videos including the one that gave all the warnings of what could happen. It wasn’t long before we got suited up in our harnesses and made the short walk to the plane. We loaded in and got hooked up to our tandem guide. The plane took off. Up! Up! Up! 

The view of Sequatchie Valley was spectacular. The Tennessee River wound around like a huge snake through the gorge. Nickajack Lake sparkled in the sunshine, shooting little diamonds skyward. Soft billowy clouds danced across the blue sky. The clouds parted as the plane passed right through them as we went higher and higher. The world below got smaller, and it looked as if it began to curve. Fourteen thousand feet. 

The door of the plane opened. There were four divers jumping tandem along with photographers to capture the exit and free fall. We all slid forward as each team plummeted out the door. My daughter and her tandem guide were the second duo to dive. I was last with my tandem guide. I sat at the edge of the door, feet dangling in the air. Goggles on. Two deep breaths. We rocked twice, then once more and we were flipping through the air. My guide had said to breathe through my nose. If I tried to breathe through my mouth, I would gasp for air. To avoid that, I kept my mouth closed.

The roar of the wind was like crashing waves of the ocean, washing over my ears, the sound magnified by the speed of descent. My ears popped from the pressure. Free fall! For 70 seconds we flew through the sky at 120+ mph. The wind gave me a facelift. Photos that captured those moments showed ripples on my arms and cheeks as we flew into the wind. 

Everything moved so fast it was hard to take everything in: flying through the air at high speed, a bird’s eye view of the world below, the mountains rising from the valley, the winding river dividing the land, the lake teeming with boats, green patchwork fields, roads meandering  here and there, houses like polka dots scattered on the landscape.

With a jerk upward and a quick decrease in speed, I knew the chute had opened. All of my gear shifted upward. The leg harness didn’t quite go into place, and the chest harness slid up to my neck. I told my guide that the strap was cutting into my leg. He said to try to adjust it, so traveling at top speed descending through the sky, I tried to stand on his feet and adjust the strap. You know how that worked out! 

We glided for a bit, then did a 360 to get a view of the whole valley. As the chute turned so did my stomach but in the opposite direction. The sound was like the wings of a giant bird as the wind whipped at the chute. We made some 180 turns immediately followed by another 180 the other direction. My stomach didn’t make all of them! One of my rules – especially for travel – is to look behind you. Sometimes we miss the best views because we don’t look back, but I was about to request to forgo that rule. 

We made one final half turn and began the descent to the drop zone where I had seen the plane and other divers land. As we got closer, I could make out the faces of those waiting on the ground. I lifted my legs high as instructed and prepared for landing. His bottom hit the ground first as we touched down on the grass and glided to a stop. I was set free. It was an exhilarating experience. Now if my stomach would just stop churning….

Checklist for future reference: motion sickness patch for tilt-a-whirl turns; tight harness.

June 2019

Back Window Adventures

The ‘57 Dodge was packed. I was ready for my first long trip. Of course, I didn’t have much to do to get ready, but my mother was a different story! It wasn’t until I was grown that I realized what a chore that was for her – trying to keep herd on 6 kids and a husband, prepare food, make sure everyone had clothing and essentials, along with a gazillion other little details. At 5 years old, I was just excited! I was extra excited because it was to be my first trip to Montana.

Somehow, it all fit.

Daddy named the appointed time for departure. I learned quickly that he did not abide by that rule regardless of Mama’s disapproval. It didn’t matter what time in the morning he planned on leaving, by 1:00 a.m. he was itching and ready to go. He’d come to our room and say, “Are you kids awake?” When we all exclaimed, “Yes,” he’d say, “Let’s go!” I can still hear the crickets and feel the humid night air and the darkness as we scrambled out of the house and crammed into the car. There was an excitement in the air and anticipation that cannot be described. Darkness soon gave way to light filtering over the horizon and soon the sun would peak over the landscape. With the coming dawn, I was filled with a second wind as the day was filled with promise and adventure.

I still marvel at how we all fit into the car. Most of the time, one kid sat in the front seat with mama and daddy, 4 kids in the back seat and one kid in the back window – that would be me! I always thought I had the best “seat.” I didn’t want to sleep or take my eyes off the changing landscape. We went from thick forests of the south with tall pines and oaks, across flat plains, crossing rivers of all sizes, to mountains rising from prairies. We came to hills that looked like patchwork quilts. Crops of wheat, oats, alfalfa, and more, along with fallow fields, made quite a display of greens, browns, and golds as grains reflected in the sun. The sky got bigger as we went west. I still remember asking about those black shapes that moved along the ground. It was hard for me to believe that they were shadows cast from the clouds – the same clouds that became dragons, dogs, alligators and other things. As day turned to night, the vast skies came to life with the stars winking at me. Seeing antelope meant that we had reached the west. Rolling hills were covered with sagebrush and prickly pears.

We made a few stops along the long road through South Dakota. We stopped at the Corn Palace in Mitchell. A & W in Chamberlain was a must. We stopped there every time we went that way until it was no longer in operation. When we crossed the Missouri River, the land changed drastically into sagebrush hills. My mother always, and I mean always, wanted to go through the Badlands. She marveled at the harsh barren colored hills. She called the Badlands “God’s Cathedral.”

Our first stop to visit family was at my great uncle’s place. My sister and I would often sleep outside with a couple of our cousins. That’s where I heard my first coyote. I ran into the house to tell my uncle that there was a little kid out on the prairie calling for its mama. He laughed when I described the sound, “maamaaaa, maamaaaa.” I was skeptical when he told me that was just a den of coyote pups. My imagination worked overtime when I thought the coyotes would jump over the short wire fence around the yard and drag me off to their den. Though the mournful cries scared me and sent shivers down my spine, I wouldn’t give in to my fear. Now when I hear those calls across the hills, it is comforting somehow. 

Something magical happened to me on that trip. I caught the fever of adventure – of exploring new places. That fever continues to burn inside me today. Actually, I think it was given to me at birth. I still find myself in awe as I travel down country roads. I don’t want to miss a thing. I still look out the window with that childlike wonder, but now I get the front seat.